Engine upgrades
Configuration 1

This first updates was just the standard as most people are doing. I just bolted on slip-ons and reset the idle mixture. At the same time I  adjusted the TPS sensor as it was not set correctly from the factory and the bike was popping a bit in the inlet at low throttle. After this adjustments the bike was running clean and nice and sounded very nice but with no performance gain.

Power is un known as I did not make any dynos run in this configuration but I would guess 100hp at the back wheel.
Configuration 2

At this time (winter 2003-2004) I was thinking what the next step should be. When I took the tank off and was looking at the airbox inlet I realized that it was no way that it was big enough to supply air to a 916 cc engine at 9500 RPM. Here it was very obvious that I could get horse powers almost for free. That inlet hole had to be bigger. The problem is that if I opened it up I would screw up the mixture and the engine would run very lean so I was putting this on hold for some time. That is how the Power Commander entered the bike. At the same time I was reading a lot about cam timing so I bought the tools needed and checked the cam timing and set it to  too factory spec. The can timing was actually not so bad.
Click here to see the values. The worst one was 4 degrees out. 2 were about 2 degrees out and the last one was spot on. I installed a Power Commander 3 and modified the airbox lid and took the bike to the dyno to make a custom map. To get a reference I also brought the standard silencers and the standard airbox lid in my back pack to make a "standard run". First run was stock (with cam timing to factory setting). Second run was with slip-ons, open airbox and zero fuel map. 3:d  run was slip-ons, open airbox and custom map in the Power Commander. All runs were with cam timing set to factory setting. From 99hp to 106 hp without touching the engine is not too bad I think.

When I had been running the bike for a half year the cooling fans started to run continuously so I took the bike to the garage as it was still on warranty. The shop told me that the ECU was broken and they blaimed  the Power Commander. I think that is just BS. It is thousands of  Ducatis running with Power Commanders and they do not just brake down. After some discussion the shop ordered a new ECU and I got a Ducati Performance ECU for slip-ons and open airbox with 10000RPM rev limit instead of 9500 on my warranty so I was very happy. I also removed the Power Commander as it was not needed any more with the new ECU.

Power is now 106hp or 7 % power increase at the rear wheel.
Green is with standard airbox and standard exhaust. Red is with open airbox, SIL Moto slip-ons and standard map and “Blueish” is with open airbox, SIL Moto slip-ons and Custom map.
Here it is with Power and A/F ration
Here is the same one with Power and TRQ
This is the fuel map that was done for my bike. I was not 100% happy with the map that the guy in the shop made for me. He was mainly concentrating on full power and he forgot the main thing with Power Commander tuning.

Drivability!

As you can see he has not done any thing at low throttles and almost nothing at middle throttles. It is zeros every were on the map and that is a sign that he did not care to much. I decided that I can do this better my self. All I need is just an Air/Fuel meter (Lambda meter) and a lot off playing. Did I say that I like to play with toys.

Even if I am not 100% happy with the fuel map it is a big difference compared to before when I drive the bike. From 4000 RPM and up it is always 4 to 7 hp more then standard so it is not too bad.
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